In the U. When working on a book on works by Frida Kahlo we, working with the owners, had various paint chemistry tests done that, country dependent, can bracket the age of a painting. On paper works we looked also at ink pigment migration down through layers of the material as an age confirmation. You probably know that some chemicals in some pigments had definite eras of use, such as lead white and real cadmium in cadmium yellow.
The tests are not cheap and have to be done by an expert lab. In my own research on paint analysis, some of which involves simple microchemistry that I've done in the lab, I found that some of the expensive paint tests using spectrometry gave completely inept amateur result, almost certainly at the fault of the specific lab technician, so if you go that route be sure to have a frank discussion with the lab before hiring someone.
My friend Ulrik Runeberg is still at this email rune-ulrik gmx. From the photos Ulrik had this view:. I only can guess and in my opinion confirm that the hardboard dates back perhaps to the s, since the structure is a kind of irregular. Later hardboards from the s usually appear more sophisticated although it seems to me that in countries such as Brasil, hardboard was processed well until into the s on wire mesh, for the drying process.
If your Masonite board is stamped "Canada" it doubtless came from Canada. Australian Masonite hardboard produced by that company was manufactured from eucalypts and was considered stronger than similar "hardboard" products made from softwoods. So if we really needed to identify the exact hardboard you have, a microscopic examination of its fibres to distinguish between eucalyptus hardboard and softwood pine based hardboard is technically possible.
If imported then your Masonite-backed painting may pre-date in-Australia production of that product. The paint failure extractive bleeding of masonite through paintings work I did with Ulrik is discussed briefly at. We hoped to be able to identify the wood fibres comprising this hardboard, at least to determine if they are distinctly from pine or from eucalyptus; the latter might argue for an Australian origin of this product.
Photos shown below give that work as in-progress; further research is needed. Our photographs include a macroscopic image under the stereo microscope above followed by images in the light microscope using transmitted and polarized light below as well as some reference images from research on the identification of Eucalyptus fibres using light microscopy.
Among the research citations below we have added resources that help describe the identification of eucalyptus wood both macroscopically and microscopically. To date the microscopic identification of eucalyptus that we've found has been of the leaf, and some research characterizing Eucalyptus wood fibres. These are wood fibres but more detail is needed to distinguish between pine or other fir fibres and eucalyptus wood.
But in my polarized light photograph above and in an excerpt from my photos of this hardboard under the microscope. I point to or encircle in yellow vessel elements that might be consistent with Eucalyptus and that would distinguish it from fir, pine, or softwood, as described in contemporary research Foelkel from which the photo below is excerpted.
The presence of vessels is obligatory in the hardwoods. In case a wood has no vessels, it is not considered to be a dicotyledonous angiosperm. If it has them, it is a hardwood. It is the case of the well-known tree called casuarina.
Because of its outside appearance, it is very similar to a conifer pine tree, but as a matter of fact it is a hardwood, it has vessels, which are even quite characteristic. The conifers form wood that has only tracheids fibers and parenchyma cells, whereas the hardwoods have fibers, parenchyma and vessels.
Foelkel p. After soaking a sample of this Aussie hardboard in propanol and water for 25 days we were able to obtain additional, better-hydrated examples of the fibres that constitute this product, as illustrated below.
It appears that the term "Masonite" is currently used by a number of hardboard manufacturers in Australia, as reflected in our citations below. If there is more extensive damage — with Masonite siding that is rotting or swollen from water retention — then It is important that you get replacement siding.
That water is not just harming your siding, but it could be wrecking the structure of your house. Since hardboard siding is no longer made, you will have to find other kinds of siding replacement. And while you can get fiber-cement or vinyl replacement siding for the affected area, you would definitely notice a difference in siding thickness and texture. The best bet is to replace all your siding with a product like James Harding Siding , consistently ranked as one of the best products on the market for its durability, good looks, ability to stand up to all kinds of weather conditions and easy maintenance.
To learn about this leading fiber-cement product and other siding replacement options, contact the professionals at Dependable Home Service for a free consultation. It was originally believed to be lower maintenance than wood, but with better looks than either vinyl or aluminum. It was intended to fill a gap for homeowners that dislike the look of vinyl but wanted something lower maintenance than wood.
But, masonite developed many serious problems of its own. Just 20 years after its creation, the original manufacturers were hit with multiple class action suits because the material does so badly. Swelling, buckling, and rotting are all really common issues with masonite siding. This is caused when moisture begins to infiltrate the siding. The wood chips and resin are not stable when they become wet.
Instead, the wood swells, causing the boards to warp and buckle. Over time, the wood then begins to rot, and the boards will begin to soften and decay. There is nothing that can fix this once it begins, so the only solution is to replace the siding.
Swelling, buckling, and rotting are all really common issues with masonite siding. This is caused when moisture begins to infiltrate the siding. The wood chips and resin are not stable when they become wet. Over time, the wood then begins to rot, and the boards will begin to soften and decay. Masonite composite hardboard has a natural moisture resistance.
When you install Masonite , the area of the hardboard penetrated by a fastener can absorb moisture. To avoid structural failure of a piece of installed Masonite , you need to waterproof the surface of the Masonite after installation.
Most commonly associated with Southwestern Spanish homes, stucco was one of the first materials used for home siding. Brick Veneer Siding. Steel Siding. Modified Wood Siding. Fiber Cement Siding. Masonite siding is primarily composed of wood fibers, glue resins and wax. Unlike natural wood, Masonite hardboard does not shrink, blister or swell.
Fortunately, you can repair Masonite hardboard siding with wood putty. Repair Masonite hardboard siding using basic supplies like this trowel.
Painting is the first option. It is much less expensive than siding with any material, and if done carefully will give your home a fresh look and protection against weather damage that can last several years. No asbestos : it is not likely that your hardboard " Masonite " type board that was painted-over in oil or acrylic contains asbestos - hardboard is a wood or cellulose product.
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